Starting Over

Building a Wardrobe From Scratch

If I had to start over, these are the pieces I would buy first. I know this content falls into “The only 5 shoes you need” or “The only 6 zebra prints worth buying.” It’s all a bit tired. But there are plenty of folks who ask me how to start a wardrobe. This is how I would do it. I have embedded links for each item.

Most, if not all, may come as no surprise.

1. Jeans. Specifically a raw or one wash denim in a dark indigo blue 10-15 ounce weight with standard 5-pocket design and details. I would look for a higher rise, straight cut with a wider leg opening. My favorite pair are from Bryceland’s, specifically the 133. I also like the Full Saddle denim from Buck Mason. Finally, the Switcher from Railcar, full disclosure, I don’t have personal experience with the last two, but they are on my list. The beauty of raw denim is that it will evolve with you over time, and dark jeans make them a touch more formal and thus versatile when you’re starting out. They can be worn with a white tee, sweaters, button ups and sport coats.

   

   

2. A blue shirt. Specifically a mid to light blue chambray or denim shirt that is lighter in color than the denim above. I tend to lean on MTM (made to measure) companies like Proper Cloth because I have a pattern on file that works for me, plus I really like their washed chambray’s. I have a couple iterations of the Indigo Utility Shirt which I wear weekly. I also like the chambray from Lands End, the details are a bit different but it’s relatively inexpensive. I also like a western shirt here too and Wrangler does a nice job for the price as well. I prefer ones with two pockets and workwear details like triple stitched seams and pearl snaps for the western vibe. Just like the jeans, the more you wear your chambray the more it will fade, soften and become part of you. Wear them open over a tee or under a jacket.

   

   

3. A white tee. The options today are endless, thanks Jeremy White. I personally like a mid weight 100% cotton with a bound crew neck. Something in a 8-10 ounce cotton jersey works well. I have dozens of them saved, but in the end, you need to go with the best fit for your frame. I like the collar to be tight but not suffocating, shoulder seam to land at my natural shoulder and sleeves about halfway down my bicep. Here are a few good options: Buck Mason Field Spec, J.Crew, Wallace & Barnes, Huckberry

   

   

4. A jacket. This may be the toughest one for me to advise you on, because there is no version that does everything. If you try and pick something that works for your climate, weather, job, personal life, can be dressed up or down is wind and water proof, you end up in a void. I don’t think any such garment exists, but if it did, it would likely be a sport coat or chore coat. Sport coats are great, but need to be tailored and can be a tricky to fit. If you’re not used to wearing them, they can feel a bit formal. A chore coat lands nicely here. They have become ubiquitous, just like the white tee, so you will have a ton of options. If you want or need something more formal, go with a darker color like navy or black, if you don’t need it to be formal, I really like a faded olive green or royal blue colorway. Here are some options from a few different brands: Buck Mason, J.Crew, RRL, Polo 1 or 2, Imogene & Willie 1 or 2, Taylor Stitch, and Huckberry.

   

   

5. Chukka’s. I don’t think you can do better than a suede chukka boot in terms of versatility. I like Goodyear welted ones because they tend to last longer and can be resoled when they wear down. Again there are lots of options but a mid to dark brown suede will go a long way and can be worn year round. Pair them with everything listed above as well as wool flannels, linen pants and even with (some) suits. J.Crew, Meermin, Carmina, Drakes and Clarks.

   

   

6. A sweater. In this case a navy blue crewneck sweater. These too can be found in a range of materials and price points. I would stick with a natural material like cotton, linen, merino, lambswool or cashmere. Which material you pick will depend on your environment or how you feel throughout the day. If you run hot, or live in a hot climate, go with linen or cotton. If you run cool or live in a cool climate, go with wool or cashmere. Pair it with anything from shorts to flannels, plus they look great over the light blue shirt mentioned above. Proper Cloth, Suit Supply, Ralph Lauren 1 or 2, Huckberry, Todd Snyder, J.Crew 1 or 2

   

   

That is it, these would be the pieces I would buy first. The best part is you can wear all of them as a full outfit if you want. Try to focus on quality over consumption. It’s better to have one good pair of jeans than 5 ill fitting and cheaply made pairs. It’s worth mentioning that all of these items can be thrifted too.

-DL-